LINCOLN, Mont. — Meriwether Lewis, the intrepid explorer of Lewis and Clark expeditionary fame, passed through here along the Blackfoot River on his return to St. Louis in 1806. This humble thru-hiker arrived in town in early September via my outstretched thumb and Montana Route 200 from the Continental Divide at Rogers Pass 18 miles to the east.

At Lincoln, Montana, Carey has 2,250 miles of the Continental Divide Trail behind him with 300 miles to go. Carey Kish photo

Tiny Lincoln (pop. 1,000) is the next to last outpost of civilization along the Continental Divide Trail for northbound hikers. Several motels, taverns, restaurants, two grocery stores and more on a short main street are everything one could ask for after five long months on the trail. A happy, if weary, hiker I am.

About 2,250 miles of the journey are behind me. Ahead, the CDT traverses the Scapegoat Wilderness and then the Bob Marshall Wilderness, some of the wildest terrain on the entire trail. The village of East Glacier Park will be my final stop before I ramble 100 miles through glorious Glacier National Park to the CDT’s northern terminus.

From Yellowstone National Park, the CDT crosses a sliver of Idaho and then makes a huge sweeping arc along the Montana-Idaho border before swinging around to Butte, Montana. A more direct route is the Big Sky Variant, which shaves off some 250 miles, a big deal for slower hikers like me concerned about getting to the Canadian border in time.

The risk of severe storms increases with each passing day from mid-September on. By October, all bets are off. Been there done that on the Pacific Crest Trail in northern Washington five years ago, when multiple big snows knocked me off the trail the second week of October, 180 miles short of the finish line. I am determined to complete the hike this year.

Any combination of routes is possible on the Big Sky Variant. I chose the path of least resistance, a series of paved roads connecting West Yellowstone to Ennis and ultimately Butte. For the better part of two weeks, I pounded the pavement over the roughly 200-mile distance, and although it took a toll on my feet, the agony was well worth it.

Threading through the Gallatin, Madison, Gravelly and Tobacco Root mountains, I enjoyed views of golden grasslands, fields of alfalfa and wheat, herds of cattle and flocks of sheep. I happily waved to every passing vehicle. The occasional wayside offered a chance for a break, a bite, a cold beer, and friendly banter with the local folks.

At times during the rural road walk, I felt like I was channeling Peter Jenkins, who in 1973, left his home in western New York and followed the highways and byways south through Appalachia all the way to Louisiana’s Gulf Coast. “I started out searching for myself and my country, and found both,” he wrote in his classic 1979 travelogue, “A Walk Across America.”

Such is the essence of the CDT, which epitomizes the “Hike Your Own Hike” philosophy. An individualist’s dream, you are free to deviate from the designated redline onto any of at least two dozen named alternates (and there are countless other options) for reasons of scenery, convenience, river levels, snow conditions, water sources, wildfires, logistics, time, or just plain whimsy. Every CDT hike is, therefore, a uniquely personal experience.

For four days north of Butte, Carey did not see another person on the Continental Divide Trail. Carey Kish photo

North of Butte, I did not see a single other soul for four days, a personal record on this trek. It was hot as blazes, water was scarce, and a smoky haze filled the air, the latter a portent of things to come.

From MacDonald Pass to Stemple Pass, the CDT was closed due to the new Marsh Creek Fire, which effectively blocked access to the entire 55-mile section. I was forced to do a workaround via roads to regain the trail and get out to Rogers Pass.

Carey Kish’s wife Fran has been supporting his Continental Divide Trail journey from the get-go.  Carey Kish photo

At Helena, my lovely wife and favorite trail angel, Fran, headed back home to Maine. With camper in tow, she has been enthusiastically supporting my hike from the get-go. Soon, she’ll be off on a long-anticipated adventure of her own, a “wine, women and walking” tour around Barcelona, Spain, which certainly sounds like a heckuva lot more fun.

Less than 300 trail miles remain. Canada, I’m coming for you. Slowly, mind you, but surely.

Carey Kish of Mount Desert Island is thru-hiking the Continental Divide Trail through the Rocky Mountains from Mexico to Canada. Follow more of his journey on Facebook and Instagram. Comments are welcome at maineoutdoors@aol.com.